
Nimsdai Purja MBE is a ground-breaking mountaineer from Nepal. Formerly a Special Forces soldier, he is now setting climbing records on the world's highest and toughest peaks.
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Direct Talk
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Courtesy of Nimsdai
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There are 14 mountains on Earth
higher than 8000 metres. -
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Climbing one usually takes
months of preparation -
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and carries a high risk of dying
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because the oxygen is so thin.
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In 2019,
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Nimsdai Purja, a mountaineer from Nepal,
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set about climbing all of them
in the fastest time. -
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The world record was almost 8 years,
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until Nims summited all 14 peaks
in just six months and six days. -
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Shortening the record by seven years
was an enormous physical challenge -
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which stunned the climbing community.
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He called the mission "Project Possible."
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Nims now holds more than 10 world records
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and makes a living as a
high-altitude mountain guide. -
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He continues to redefine
what is humanly possible -
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in the most extreme environments.
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Direct Talk caught up with him in London.
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First time, you know,
Neil Armstrong went to the moon, -
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it was outside people's imagination.
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So my Project Possible was something
that was beyond people's imagination. -
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And in my case, it was a mission to climb
all the 14 highest mountain of the world -
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and to climb that within seven months,
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which I did in six months, six days.
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It's like Nims saying,
I'm going to swim to the moon. -
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Nothing is easy in life,
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but you need to commit first.
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Once you commit,
then you got to work hard for it. -
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You got to dedicate.
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You will always achieve greatness
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if anything that you do is not about you.
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Your ambition has to be bigger than yourself,
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then you will achieve the impossible.
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The world's 14
8000-metre peaks -
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are located in Nepal, China and Pakistan.
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Climbing all of them in a single year
had never been attempted. -
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Nims' ground-breaking record made him
a global mountaineering icon. -
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The climbing community were stunned
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that a Nepalese mountaineer,
not a professional sherpa, -
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had achieved such a feat.
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I think the biggest thing
is I had the purpose -
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that I solely believed in that was
to show the world that nothing is impossible. -
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And the second I really wanted to raise
the name of the Nepalese climbers. -
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Those two mission is what it kept me going
during my difficult times. -
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The mountain never say, you know,
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you are from Nepal,
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you are from England,
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you are from America,
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you are tall, you are short,
you are beautiful, ugly, whatever it is, -
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it's the same rule.
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Okay. If you're really good you will make it
to the top and get back down safely. -
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It wasn't about how difficult
one mountain is and all that. -
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It's about
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the bigger picture game
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that we all have our own
mountains in life to climb -
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and how we summit them.
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Nims was born in western Nepal in 1983.
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His father was a soldier
and his mother a farmer. -
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When they married, they were cut off from
their families both socially and financially -
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because they were from
different castes, or classes. -
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As a results, Nims grew up in poverty.
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Today everybody see me very successful
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but it has taken me 39 years.
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As a kid, we didn't even had a flip-flops
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just to eat like some meat,
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have to wait for like Christmas, a year.
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I remember we're sleeping
on the ground floor. -
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We had like a chicken farm on top of our,
on the first floor and everything -
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I used to remember like me
and my mom going around the forest -
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to collect, like, woods,
and we used to sell them. -
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I used to go for like
crab hunting in a little river -
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and I loved to be in the jungle,
in the rivers and all that. -
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It was tough.
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But then my two brothers,
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they joined the Gurkhas
and they supported the family. -
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The Gurkhas are Nepalese soldiers
recruited into the British Army. -
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Nims attended boarding school
thanks to his older brothers -
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who served as Gurkhas
and paid for his education. -
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When Nims was 18,
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he passed the highly competitive
military selection process -
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to become a Gurkhas soldier himself.
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The Gurkhas have got a huge reputation
of being the bravest of the bravest -
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the most loyal soldiers in the world.
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For me, when I see my brothers
coming into Nepal doing their leave, -
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I was like, wow,
because they were super fit. -
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They look really good because
they have been training and all that. -
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And I just love that military style somehow.
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And I just wanted to be
one of those cool dudes, you know? -
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So that was it.
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The selection is very tough
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and in my time we had 32,000 applicants
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and only 230 could make it.
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I think it's hard.
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Even now I think like,
how did I did that? -
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As a kid of like, you know, 15 year old.
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I used to wake up you know 1:00 in the morning
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run 20 kilometres, sometimes 30 kilometres.
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And I used to come in the hostel
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because I used to live in a boarding school
at that point. -
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And I used to have to pretend I'm asleep
with everybody else in the dormitory. -
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Then I woke up,
then I pretend I'm brushing my teeth. -
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So I used to pretend
I have never left the compound. -
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But once I joined the Gurkhas,
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I found out,
wow, there's a special unit here. -
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They do something like James Bond,
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but in real life time.
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And I was like fascinated by that.
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Nims went on to become the first Gurkhas
to join the UK Special Forces, -
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Britain's elite fighting force.
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His first experience of mountain climbing
was not until he was nearly 30 years old, -
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which is late in life
compared to many mountaineers. -
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Look, when I serve with the special forces,
I travel all over the world. -
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And when people kind of like, see me,
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they ask me, where are you from?
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And I say, I'm from Nepal.
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Most of them would know where Nepal is
and some of them wouldn't know. -
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Then I have to say,
do you know Mt. Everest? -
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And they would say yes.
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I was like,
okay, that's where I'm from. -
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And they would ask me,
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"Have you seen Mount Everest?"
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Then I was like, No.
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So I was actually embarrassed of saying no,
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that I haven't seen Mount Everest at all
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And that's the sole reason
I went to Nepal to see Mount Everest. -
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At that point,
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when you think you are the first Gurkha
ever in the Special Boat Service, -
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you've been all over the world,
have done, you know, this crazy stuff. -
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You think you're invincible.
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And the mountain made me feel
how small I was. -
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And I love that component to start with.
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And that's how we started
going back into the mountains. -
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Courtesy of Nimsdai
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Nims first summited Mount Everest in 2016.
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He realised that he had a
unique physiological ability -
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to perform feats of endurance
at high altitude -
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after he climbed Everest and two
neighbouring 8000 metre peaks in record time. -
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I decided to climb Everest,
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Lhotse, and Makalu,
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and I managed to climb that within five days,
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and that's me stopping for two nights party.
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Otherwise I could have done that
in three days and, -
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but most importantly,
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when I climb Makalu and
got back down to base camp, -
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the heli was supposed to pick me up,
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but because of the bad weather,
the heli didn't came. -
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So I ran all the way from base camp to Noom,
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which is about, you know,
seven days' worth of trekking, -
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extreme trekking.
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And I did that in 18 hours
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and I was still fresh.
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You will never know your true ability
until and unless you try. -
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Just don't judge yourself
on the basis of what you think. -
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Despite opposition from his family
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who were looking to Nims
to provide for his elderly parents, -
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he left his highly-successful
military career after 16 years. -
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This meant giving up any retirement benefits.
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He wanted to pursue his goal of climbing
all 14 of the world's highest mountains -
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in less than seven months –
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a series of three expeditions
he called "Project Possible." -
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I got this drive to resign
from the Special Forces, -
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give my pension, everything,
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because my mission was bigger than myself.
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No one was happy
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because for us that's everything.
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Serving with the UK Special Forces
was the biggest thing, -
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something that I really admire in myself.
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So I'm giving obviously
whole of my pension, my career, -
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to go and do this thing.
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Only I know what I was capable of.
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I called that Project Possible
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because the rest of the world
said it's impossible. -
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Raising the fund for something
that the world thinks is impossible -
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is very, very tough.
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Very, very tough. That's the hardest thing
I've ever done, I think, in my whole life. -
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You have to commit yourself first
before you ask from others. -
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So my commitment was not only
resigning from the Special Forces, -
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giving up my pension,
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but I sold my house, remortgage everything
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and put the money into it
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because if I don't believe
how other people can believe in that project? -
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Project Possible was a
physical and mental battle for Nims -
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and he took on huge financial risk.
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He shared his story of one man
pushing at the limits of human endurance -
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in a documentary named 14 Peaks.
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Throughout the project,
Nims was supported by a rotating team -
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of exclusively Nepalese climbers.
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He wanted to spotlight
the Sherpa climbing community -
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as athletes in their own right,
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much more than their usual
reported role as guides for tourists. -
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For me, in my whole life
is about the fairness. -
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You know, people who deserve that
credibility needs to be given. -
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Statistically
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it's the most watched sports
documentary of all time. -
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Straight away you can say that,
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of course, it has raised the name
of the Nepalese climbers. -
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Let me be honest,
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I never took the flag of Nepal or the
Great Britain when I went to this project. -
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It was purely for humanity.
One goal, the primary objective. -
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The second was, of course,
to raise the name of the Nepalese climbers. -
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The United Kingdom can also take pride.
Okay, he's our Special Forces guy. -
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The Gurkhas can take pride.
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Nepal can take pride.
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My village can take pride.
My school colleague can take pride. -
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Those people from my caste can take pride.
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But no, I'm thinking big here,
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because that comes from my heart.
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That's why I'm who I am today.
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As a soldier and mountaineer,
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Nims has gained experience
of leadership and morality -
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in the most extreme environments on Earth.
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He has performed multiple daring
rescue missions of stricken climbers. -
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Now I'm going to tell this,
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I have led 32
8000-metre peak expeditions. -
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I have never failed in any of those,
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not only reaching to the summit,
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but bringing my team back
exactly the same way they have left. -
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Okay. No one in my team
has even got frostbite. -
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You know, to have that track record,
32 out of 32 is. -
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I take pride in that.
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And it only came from meticulous planning.
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Yes, I have to operate in a very,
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I would say,
stressful conditions, environment. -
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But my decision is always right
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and that comes with a huge amount
of knowledge and experience. -
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Nims continues to lead on
record breaking missions. -
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Even during the COVID pandemic,
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he wrote his autobiography.
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And, in 2021,
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led a team of sherpas to the
first ever winter ascent of K2, -
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the second highest mountain on Earth.
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I think during the COVID, I managed to
write my book Beyond Possible, -
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which is the Sunday Times bestseller
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been translated in
so many different languages. -
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But also we made the
first winter season of K2 and -
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that was also during the COVID times.
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So again, you always have to
find your way through, -
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navigate what you can do at that point
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rather than moaning about
what you couldn't do. -
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The Himalayas are a
fragile mountain ecosystem -
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threatened by climate change
and extreme tourism. -
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Many visitors leave waste on the mountains.
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Nims is working to protect
this unique environment -
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and reverse the impact of extreme tourism
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in a new project called
The Big Mountain Cleanup. -
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We are cleaning all the rubbish
from popular 8000 metre peaks. -
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And these are not the rubbish that
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the mountaineers who have climbed
this year or last year they have left. -
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It's been there from since
the history of mountaineering started. -
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It was so hard
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because even like pick up the rubbish
at 8000 metre is tough. -
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Some of them are like buried with the ice
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and even to dig out
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is oh my god, it is a very tough mission.
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I think we're going back again next year.
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But our mission is to go there first
before everybody comes in, -
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because once people put their tent,
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you cannot take them away
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because then people might leave their
life saving essential equipment. -
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So you can't do that.
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So we have to be in front of everybody
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trying to take as much as we can
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and then also go at the end as well.
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So that's our mission for next year.
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But of course, you got to employ
at least 15 sherpas -
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who are able to work there.
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And of course, you have to pay their salary.
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So it is not a cheap mission,
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it is quite expensive,
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but we are determined to do that.
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Everything has to be counter-balanced.
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Just now we're sitting the base camp,
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everything runs through solar power.
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As long as you keep remembering that
whatever footprint you are leaving -
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has an impact to our home, which is Earth,
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that's good enough to have a bigger impact.
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To grow his sustainability mission,
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Nims launched the Nimsdai Foundation.
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The charity supports military veterans
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and other causes Nims is passionate about –
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which includes giving back
to the Himalayan mountain communities -
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and inspiring the
next generation of mountaineers. -
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So we support heavily on Nepal, Pakistan,
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but also all over the world.
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You know, we sponsor Spanish climber
who is super good, Stefi. -
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She's a female climber to climb on K2.
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I supported a very young talent
from Peru who was 12 year old. -
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He wanted to climb. He didn't have money.
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So we supported him to achieve his goal.
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I think what it drives me is
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my existence and
my purpose now is not about myself. -
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It's bigger than who I am,
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it's for the people.
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So that's what it drives me.
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It doesn't matter where you come from,
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what your background is,
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you can always show the world
that nothing is impossible, -
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you know, there's no excuses.
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And through your hard work,
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dedication, commitment,
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being disciplined.
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And I would say one thing,
you know, to be a successful person, -
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motivation is not good enough.
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You got to be self-motivated.
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And with all the things,
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you can be on top of the world.
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That's my message.
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Nothing is impossible