
Kishikawa Masanori is a Shinto priest who has organized live painting events, anime collaborations and more at a 1,300-year-old shrine. He shares his vision of a shrine for modern times.
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"Direct Talk"
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Our guest today is Kishikawa Masanori,
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a priest at Kanda Myojin Shrine.
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Kanda Myojin was founded nearly 1,300 years ago.
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Kishikawa also works in the shrine's public relations office.
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Under his tenure, the shrine has hosted professional wrestling events,
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collaborated with popular anime series,
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and created a virtual rendering of the shrine,
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all in an effort to get more people to visit.
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We asked Kishikawa to share with us
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his vision of a Shinto shrine for modern times.
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We think of tradition as unchanging.
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But it does change over time, without a doubt.
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People think of Kanda Myojin
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as a bastion of traditional culture, which it is.
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But at the same time, it also incorporates contemporary culture.
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Kanda Myojin Shrine is located in the heart of Tokyo.
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It's a popular destination
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where visitors pray for good luck in marriage,
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prosperity in business,
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and protection from disaster and misfortune.
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On this day, the shrine is hosting a live painting event
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featuring artist Kojo Masayuki.
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I gather up all of my life energy. Then I concentrate it in my core.
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It's a ritual I do.
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Meanwhile, Kishikawa is relieved
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that the weather is relatively mild for a summer day.
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Their movements are so intense and dynamic.
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So I'm glad it's not too hot.
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Kojo unleashes his brush in bold strokes across the blank canvas.
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Ten minutes later, he's completed a painting depicting
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a famous feudal lord enshrined at Kanda Myojin.
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What a powerful performance.
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This is my first time seeing something like this.
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And at a shrine, no less.
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It was amazing seeing the painting come to life.
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I would say I was fortunate as I was just walking by
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and I heard the sound and was like "What's happening?"
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The performance was joyful and I was impressed by the performance.
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I think this will be a cool experience for the young generation.
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In the past, the shrine has also hosted wrestling matches
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organized by a local pro wrestling organization.
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A shrine hosting a wrestling match may sound odd.
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But surprisingly, it's resonated with people.
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It attracts an audience.
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The way I approach these things is this.
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My number one goal
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is for people to make a personal connection with Kanda Myojin.
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There are still many people out there
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who aren't familiar with this shrine.
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So these events are a way to spread awareness.
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Kanda Myojin has also partnered with popular anime series
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to offer good-luck amulets featuring their characters.
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By collaborating with anime, manga, video game series, and so on,
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my goal is to get young people to come visit the shrine.
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In that respect, it's been a success.
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I tell people that we embrace contemporary culture here
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because in a hundred years' time
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these collaborations will have become part of the shrine's legacy.
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The people who come to worship are all modern-day humans.
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They're not from the Edo period.
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They have modern prayers and dreams.
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So we embrace modern culture,
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and anime and manga just happen to be part of that.
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Kishikawa was born in Tokyo in 1974.
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He first encountered Shinto studies
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when he enrolled in a Shinto-affiliated high school.
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He had chosen the school mainly because it was close to his home.
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In high school, I was like most people.
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I had this knee-jerk aversion to the word "religion."
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There was just something about it I couldn't stomach.
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So I had no intention of becoming a priest.
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As a high school student, Kishikawa spent most of his free time reading.
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I was a voracious reader.
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From Japanese literature,
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to Agatha Christie detective novels, to essays.
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I read anything and everything I could get my hands on.
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For one thing, I enjoyed it.
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I think also there must have been a part of me
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that wanted to become a writer.
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Often with things like essays,
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I'd scan through the words on the page
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without really understanding what I was reading.
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But I figured if I read widely, I'd come away the wiser for it.
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So I read books of all kinds.
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Kishikawa applied to study literature at university, but was rejected.
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On the recommendation of a teacher,
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he decided to pursue Shinto studies instead.
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There, he discovered a topic of great fascination.
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I did research on what are called "human deities."
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In Shinto, there's a culture of enshrining real people as deities.
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I'd gone in with my preconceptions about religion.
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So the idea of human beings being enshrined as deities was eye-opening,
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it was very intriguing.
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That was a completely new concept to me.
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Kanda Myojin deifies a tenth-century feudal warlord
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named Taira no Masakado.
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My advising professor said to me,
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if you're going to study human deities,
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you have to look into Taira no Masakado.
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So I started to do research on him.
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Kishikawa's research took him to Kanda Myojin.
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Gradually, he built up a rapport with one of the shrine staff.
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I'd been visiting Kanda Myojin a number of times,
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and each time a public relations representative had been helping me out.
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One day, they mentioned to me that there was an opening in their office,
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and asked if I'd be interested.
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And that's how I first started working at Kanda Myojin.
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It taught me that there is such a thing as fate.
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I'm here not by my own doing.
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Once every two years, Kanda Myojin holds the Kanda Festival,
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a grand event to pray for peace and safety
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for Tokyo and Japan as a whole.
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Impressive portable shrines are paraded through the streets.
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As part of his work in the public relations office,
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Kishikawa has worked to unravel the history of the shrine.
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Looking through old documents,
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I came across an old picture scroll depicting the festival.
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In the modern Kanda Festival,
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we carry these portable shrines on our shoulders and parade them around.
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But the scroll shows a procession of floats
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that are between four to eight meters tall.
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They're on two wheels and being pulled by oxen.
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And you can see they're decorated with large figures
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and other town symbols.
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When you see that,
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it's very clear that festivals are different from era to era.
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Starting in the late 19th century, you started getting streetcars,
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and power lines were being put up all over.
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That made it harder to maneuver these huge floats through the streets.
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Eventually, around the 1910s and 1920s,
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the people of each neighborhood
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started making their own portable shrines.
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And that was really the beginning of the kind of festivals
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we're familiar with today.
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In other words, the modern-day festival format is relatively new.
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There was a shift from floats to portable shrines.
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Perhaps it was a function of the urban setting.
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You realize it was thanks to their flexibility
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that these festivals are still going on and are as lively as ever.
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As Kishikawa studied the picture scroll more closely,
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something else caught his eye.
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When you look closely,
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you see dance platforms and lines of street dancers.
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There are these young girls parading down the street.
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Girls from about the age of 5 to 16, participating in the procession.
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The festival represented a chance for them
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to show off the moves they'd been practicing.
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These girls studied musical performance,
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so you could say that they were semi-professional dancers.
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In other words, they're not unlike young girls today
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who aspire to become pop idols.
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On the Kanda Myojin grounds is a cultural exchange center
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that also includes a concert hall.
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The venue has hosted performances by many budding pop starlets.
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The more you study history,
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the more you realize they were doing the same kind of things back then.
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If anything, they did it on a grander scale.
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They essentially had these starlets
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dancing and parading down the streets.
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I want to revive that atmosphere of excitement here at the shrine.
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Historically speaking, shrines were lively places.
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A few centuries ago in the Edo period
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every Shinto shrine and Buddhist temple in old Tokyo
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served as a kind of center of activity.
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Some even had a small theater on-site.
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Shrines are not just places of prayer.
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There's more to them than that.
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I feel like people often see shrines in a very narrow way,
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as sacred and restrictive places.
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They tend to put shrines in a box.
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As part of his efforts to revamp Kanda Myojin,
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Kishikawa has also set his sights on visitors from abroad.
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He organizes shrine visits for international students,
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and gives them a hands-on experience of Shinto and shrine culture.
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He also worked with the website "Virtual Akihabara"
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to create a virtual rendering of the space.
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People around the world can explore the Kanda Myojin grounds online.
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At the virtual shrine,
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the approach to the main hall is lined with works by Kojo Masayuki.
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Whether it's something new, or something old or historical,
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the most important thing is to embrace it, to accept it.
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Naturally, there will be many cultural elements
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that are lost along the way.
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But those things that disappear make way for other things,
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just like festival floats eventually became portable shrines.
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Culture flows continuously, changing to fit the times.
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It's important for us to embrace that, and shrines are no exception.
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(Do you have any words to live by?)
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"New traditions are born out of history."
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The more you learn about history,
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the more you begin to realize there are really no new things.
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All we have, all of the different things we've created,
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are based on what we've learned from the past, from history.
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We've accumulated all of this history.
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And it's not necessarily about paying homage to all of that.
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But you should take the time to learn about history.
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In my case, that's what serves as the basis
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for our collaborations with anime series
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and all the different events we host.
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The power to make those things happen, comes from the past.
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So my hope is that the priests that follow in our footsteps
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carry on that legacy and create new traditions.