Accessible and Inclusive Fashion: Hirabayashi Kei / Representative Director, Japan Persons with Disabilities Fashion Association

Hirabayashi Kei wants to break down the barriers between able-bodied people and those with disabilities. He shares his passion for stylish, accessible and inclusive fashion.

Transcript

00:03

"Direct Talk"

00:08

Our guest today is trying to change the world through the power of fashion.

00:17

Hirabayashi Kei.

00:23

He's making waves with fashion designs

00:25

that are accessible, inclusive and stylish.

00:31

In fall, 2022,

00:32

he plans to put on a fashion show featuring models in wheelchairs

00:36

during Paris Fashion Week.

00:39

I wanted to completely flip the script

00:42

in terms of how people view disabilities,

00:45

and this was the way to do it.

00:49

Hirabayashi aims to break down the barriers

00:52

between able-bodied people and those with disabilities.

00:57

He shares his passion for designing stylish clothes that can be worn by anybody,

01:01

not just those with disabilities.

01:04

Accessible and Inclusive Fashion

01:08

This is Hirabayashi's first creation, the "Bottom'all."

01:13

The wrap-around design makes it easy to put on and take off,

01:16

even for wheelchair users.

01:18

The zipper is also specially designed.

01:23

You can snap the sliders into place like so.

01:27

Then you hook your finger in here and can zip it up with very little effort.

01:32

This is the main feature of the Bottom'all.

01:39

His aim was to create clothing that could be worn by all people

01:43

regardless of their abilities, age or gender.

01:50

The thing is, there was one problem.

01:52

If you were to ask the average Japanese man

01:55

to wear a skirt to work starting tomorrow,

01:58

most guys would be like "Uh, I don't think so."

02:02

You get that knee-jerk reaction

02:04

because there's this preconceived notion that skirts are for women.

02:08

So I thought, what if we stopped calling it a skirt?

02:12

We combined "bottom" and "all" to make the "Bottom'all."

02:16

They're bottoms that are designed to be worn by all.

02:19

The name fits perfectly.

02:23

Hirabayashi began posting pictures of himself

02:26

and others modeling the bottoms to social media,

02:28

which quickly garnered attention.

02:32

The local mayor of Ibaraki, Osaka

02:35

has even worn one to public speaking engagements.

02:40

They promoted the product with special sales events

02:43

which were a great success with both disabled and able-bodied customers.

02:51

The inspiration for the Bottom'all

02:53

came from a conversation Hirabayashi had with a wheelchair user.

02:59

I was telling this person I wanted to change the world through welfare and fashion.

03:04

Then he told me that, as he got older,

03:07

he'd given up on dressing fashionably.

03:10

I couldn't understand what he meant.

03:14

Fashion is about expressing yourself.

03:16

You're free to do whatever you want.

03:19

I was honest with him and told him that I couldn't understand

03:22

why he'd repress that desire.

03:25

Then he explained to me that in his experience,

03:28

many dressing rooms were not wheelchair accessible.

03:33

And even if he were to get someone to help him into a dressing room,

03:37

he told me he would also often need their help

03:39

to put on the clothes he'd want to wear.

03:44

He told me it started making him uncomfortable

03:46

troubling others to help him satisfy his own desire

03:49

to look good or look cool.

03:52

So he began suppressing his desire to dress well.

03:57

Hearing that,

03:59

it really began to eat at me.

04:02

When you think about it, if there were more clothes out there

04:05

that were both accessible and fashionable,

04:08

he would never have had to experience feelings like that.

04:14

The concept of "universal design" or "design for all"

04:18

has spread worldwide.

04:20

But Hirabayashi believes that alone isn't enough.

04:25

The designs may be accessible to all,

04:27

but they don't exactly inspire all.

04:32

What we're trying to do is go beyond universal design,

04:36

an update, the next stage of universal design,

04:41

designs that everyone will want to wear that make their heart sing.

04:46

We're doing this to take universal design to the next level

04:49

on a global scale.

04:52

Hirabayashi was born in Osaka in 1977.

04:59

He aspired to become a famous hairdresser,

05:01

but severe eczema led him to abandon his dreams.

05:07

He says that, as an adult,

05:09

he became aware that he had ADHD.

05:15

I'd frequently double-book myself.

05:18

Or someone would ask me to bring something with me

05:21

and I would just forget.

05:23

It wouldn't just slip my mind,

05:25

I'd have no recollection of them asking.

05:28

I have a very limited working memory.

05:30

I forget things quickly.

05:33

I struggled a lot back before I knew I had a developmental disability.

05:37

I was hard on myself.

05:40

But when I realized there was a reason I couldn't do these things,

05:44

I learned to shrug it off.

05:46

That lifted a huge weight off my shoulders.

05:49

I let go.

05:51

I'm open and honest about the things I can't do.

05:55

The thing is, if it feels like you can't do anything,

05:58

it's hard to admit it.

06:00

But if you're aware of your strengths,

06:02

it becomes easy to be open about how you can and can't contribute.

06:09

It's so important to understand your strengths.

06:14

In 2017, Hirabayashi opened a school for children

06:17

with developmental disabilities in Hyogo Prefecture.

06:22

He provides one-on-one instruction

06:24

to help them develop communication and organizational skills

06:27

necessary to function in society.

06:31

He says that when he left the beauty industry and began working in welfare,

06:35

he noticed a certain pervasive attitude.

06:40

There was this prevailing sense that welfare had to be docile,

06:43

self-serious, modest, subdued.

06:48

Many welfare business owners seemed averse to the idea of making money.

06:52

But how are you supposed to attract talented workers otherwise?

06:57

That mentality was what surprised me most.

07:00

They think they can't profit because they receive subsidies from the government.

07:05

I would tell people that I wanted to build a gorgeous facility

07:08

that children and their parents could get excited about visiting,

07:12

a place they could be proud of.

07:14

But people would say,

07:16

"That's nice and all, but we'd prefer you focus

07:19

on educating and supporting these kids."

07:24

In my mind, decor and service are unrelated.

07:29

But to them, stylish interior design meant subpar service.

07:34

Following that logic,

07:35

a chic restaurant must have subpar food.

07:39

It's ridiculous, right?

07:41

It was as if they thought of being fashionable as evil.

07:47

Alongside his work with children, in 2019,

07:50

Hirabayashi and his colleagues established

07:53

the Japan Persons with Disabilities Fashion Association.

07:59

Their goal is to bring about change in the welfare industry through fashion.

08:06

If you want to get somewhere quickly, go alone.

08:09

But if you want to go far, gather a big crew before you set out.

08:14

You need numbers to bring about real change.

08:17

The power of one superman isn't enough, and I'm no superman.

08:21

I'm not everyone's cup of tea.

08:25

But with numbers, you can accomplish things

08:27

you wouldn't have the ability to do yourself.

08:31

In addition to the Bottom'all,

08:33

the group has created a jacket designed for wheelchair users.

08:38

The length is kept short so it retains its crisp look

08:41

and doesn't wrinkle when seated.

08:46

This kimono allows wheelchair users to show up

08:49

to their coming-of-age ceremony in style.

08:55

The bottom features a wrap-around design.

09:00

The top features sleeves that fold up

09:03

so that they don't get caught in the wheels.

09:08

The group's current goal is to put on a fashion show

09:11

during Paris Fashion Week 2022.

09:16

Here, they discuss plans for a jacket with sleeves

09:20

designed for easy wheelchair maneuvering.

09:26

What if you could roll up the sleeves to expose friction-resistant fabric?

09:33

It can be difficult to roll up sleeves.

09:37

When driving the wheels, you want fabric to protect your arm.

09:46

So let's rethink the sleeves.

09:51

The group plans to present a total of ten looks,

09:54

including their signature Bottom'all.

09:56

To convey its founding vision,

09:58

the show will feature a mix of disabled and able-bodied models.

10:04

The theme is going to be "If."

10:06

What if we lived in a world where wheelchairs were the norm?

10:10

What kind of fashion trends would we be seeing?

10:14

We live in a world where walking on two legs is the norm.

10:18

We're hoping to completely flip the script,

10:21

a world where wheelchairs are ubiquitous.

10:26

Many people still have somewhat negative associations toward disabilities.

10:31

But what if we could show them something cool and stylish?

10:35

That might make them pause and rethink their preconceptions

10:39

and maybe see that times are changing.

10:44

It's about updating the public image of people with disabilities.

10:48

They're not weak or inferior.

10:50

They don't need your pity.

10:52

What if we could see disabilities as abilities,

10:55

as cool and inspirational?

10:58

That's what we want people to see.

11:07

The group plans to use special fabrics for the new pieces.

11:13

They're tapping the techniques used to make high-end silk textiles

11:17

in the Nishijin weaving district of Kyoto.

11:23

Here's the Nishijin-woven fabric designed by Hirabayashi.

11:28

He spent over six months developing a design

11:31

that was distinct from traditional Japanese patterns.

11:35

The color scheme and pattern are completely different.

11:41

The weave is the same but the end product is different.

11:49

They've really brought my idea to life. Wow.

12:01

We don't want this to be a one-off show,

12:04

so we have some surprises in store,

12:06

ideas for showing the functionality of our designs.

12:11

I enjoy the creative process leading up to the show,

12:13

and I'm super excited for the show itself.

12:17

But what really excites me is the day after.

12:20

That's the high point for me.

12:24

You never know what comes the day after the show.

12:27

How will people react? How will the world be affected?

12:30

You just never know.

12:33

The thrill of the day after is what I live for.

12:39

Hirabayashi hopes to change working environments for people with disabilities.

12:45

- Hello.
- Hello!

12:51

Production of the Bottom'all is outsourced to a business

12:54

that employs workers with various disabilities.

12:59

What do you enjoy most about sewing?

13:02

Hm...

13:05

Maybe when you finish a difficult task?

13:11

Every task is difficult.

13:13

I see.

13:17

- Sewing clothes is difficult.
- Yes, it is.

13:24

The reality is that wages for workers

13:26

are often not enough for them to make ends meet.

13:32

Hirabayashi believes that if he can cause a stir in Paris with the Bottom'all,

13:37

he can help improve working environments for those with disabilities.

13:43

The problem facing employment support offices for the disabled

13:47

is that they're unable to offer good wages to workers,

13:50

to the people who come to them for work.

13:54

Putting on a fashion show during Paris Fashion Week

13:57

will raise the profile of the Bottom'all.

14:00

If we can increase the value of our product,

14:03

we can increase the amount being paid to the workers making it.

14:09

If you're making something of value,

14:11

it's only natural that you're compensated accordingly.

14:15

It would be great if I can build that framework using the Bottom'all.

14:19

That would change how people think of employment for those with disabilities.

14:24

(Do you have any words to live by?)

14:31

"Let your heart sing."

14:34

For me, doing something to help others,

14:37

helping make someone's future brighter,

14:39

that's what makes my heart sing.

14:43

You only live once,

14:45

so I want to live my one life with joy and excitement.

14:49

Live your best life.