WASANBON

Tokyo: this world-class metropolis is a veritable gourmet wonderland.

Discover the stories behind the ingredients that make this city so delicious— so "oishii."

We need salt, but life is much sweeter with sugar!

Two main raw materials, sugarcane and sugar beet, are found right here in Japan.

Production and consumption volumes are low, but Japan makes up for that with an array of unique varieties.

Even from a global standpoint, it's pretty special.

And in Japanese cuisine, the sugar used depends on what you're making.

A type called "wasanbon" is gaining traction with chefs and pâtissiers around the world.

Its mild sweetness and soft texture make it perfect for traditional sweets, called "wagashi."

"Oishii!"

It's only produced in certain regions of Japan, so it's quite special.

This and more about Japan's unique sugar, "wasanbon."

Trails to Oishii Tokyo.

Hi, it's Kailene!

In the US, I mostly use simple white and brown sugars.

However, when I came to Japan, the variety of sugars available in Japanese supermarkets surprised and overwhelmed me.

I definitely have a sweet tooth, so I'm very much looking forward to learning what makes Japanese sugar special.

Kailene begins at a baking supply shop offering a wide selection of sugar.

I'm here to learn about sugar.
How many types do you have?

This is all sugar here.

This whole section?

Yes.

So many kinds. How many?

Including what's not here,
we sell over 70 types.

70?

Over 15 types produced in Japan.

Japan produces that many kinds?

Yes, domestically sourced.

Sugarcane is one of two major raw materials.

It's grown in warm areas like Okinawa and Kagoshima.

There's also sugar beet.

It looks like a turnip, but it's a member of the spinach family.

It's mainly grown in Hokkaido, a colder region to the north.

Sugar production in Japan is said to date back to the late 16th century.

After relying on imports for over 900 years, domestic production increased after sugarcane cultivation was spearheaded by the Edo shogunate.

Being from the US, I'm only familiar with
granulated and brown sugar.

Like that. Standard sugar.

Right. This is the most common type
of sugar used around the world.

This granulated sugar is a popular choice for coffee, tea and baking.

As for brown sugar, there are several types
with different shades. These are some major ones.

Sugar is categorized by raw material and refining process.

Caster sugar is most common in Japanese homes.

I've probably bought that
thinking it was granulated sugar.

It's a type of fine granulated sugar,
so it's a bit different.

Caster sugar is the most consumed in Japan.

It has finer grains and a softer texture.

Do you choose based on what you're cooking?

Yes. In Japan, many people use brown sugar
in stewed dishes, because it's richer.

The same goes for soft brown sugar.

Rock sugar like this is used to make syrups.

I think I've seen it in jars with plums.

Exactly!

I thought it was ice cubes at first!

It dissolves slowly to make a tasty syrup.
It's commonly used that way.

That's rich!

Are any of these unique to Japan?

That would be "wasanbon."

The grains are very fine.

Right. It has an elegant, mild sweetness.

It melts in your mouth. Very tasty.

It's only produced in a particular area.

Mainly Tokushima and Kagawa in the Shikoku region.
It's quite special.

It's used to make traditional sweets,
and recently Western-style sweets too.

Different types for different recipes.

Now, let's take a closer look at the star of Japanese sugar.

Top-class "wasanbon" sugar.

Its raw material and production occur solely in Tokushima and Kagawa, in Japan's Shikoku region.

It's made from "chikuto" sugarcane, a native variety of sugarcane.

"Chikuto" has thinner stalks and is cultivated in low quantities.

Harvest begins in December, when sugar content is high.

Only six "wasanbon" refineries remain today.

Kailene visits one established in 1864.

Good morning!

Good morning.

Nice to meet you. I'm Kailene.

I'm Hattori.

You're working at 5 AM?

Yeah, this is when we get started.

So early!

You get to work before the sun comes up.

Once harvested, raw materials are processed throughout the winter.

"Chikuto" sugarcane is put through a shredder, with the bark intact.

This creates small, fibrous pieces.

These are run through a large pressure roller.

It smells really like a campfire almost.

The machines have been in use for over 50 years, since his grandfather's time.

They're maintained and serviced with pride.

Different than what I was expecting.

The extracted juice is heated in a large cauldron, and bitter scum is removed from the top.

Interesting color.

It looks like mud.

It doesn't look appetizing yet.

Right.

They continue to remove scum while adjusting the heat.

Patience is key.

It smells like...

...rice crackers or seaweed chips.

The smell reminds me of that.

As scum is removed, the mixture gets sweeter and changes color.

It's boiled down further to reduce moisture, and stirred as it cools.

Over two hours, it reduces to ten percent of its original volume, and gets thick and brown.

They move it to ceramic containers for cooling.

It turned from green to brown.

He'll let Kailene try some.

Looks sticky like caramel.

Sweet!

It's like...

It reminds me a little bit of molasses, but still has a different flavor base.

Similar in texture though.

It's left out for a month to crystallize.

Here is another sugar refinery in Tokushima.

Shown here is a traditional method.

The thick mixture is pressed, removing moisture and impurities.

This also removes molasses, making it a lighter color.

It's kneaded by hand over and over.

The more they do it, the finer the grains get.

After sifting and drying, you have "wasanbon."

The method dates back to the Edo period.

"Wasanbon" from Tokushima is called "Awa wasanbon."

Would you like to try?

May I? I'd like a taste.

It's like powder.

It melts away. Gone in a second.

The grains are fine, so it dissolves quickly.

The refinery also makes "wagashi."

This flower is made of white bean paste, and... "wasanbon!"

You can see here we've got rice on the bottom, and then we've got the traditional Japanese bean paste on top.

We're gonna give it a try.

A very, again, refined-tasting sweetness to it.

It's not something that's pow, in-your-face, but it's sort of like a very delicate, but also very delicious sweet.

Sugar making tech, passed down over generations.

Behind every traditional sweet lies the strength and elegance of "wasanbon."

Kailene heads to neighboring Kagawa, the other production area.

She'll visit a workshop that makes a type of sweets called "higashi."

- Welcome.
- Hello.

She's welcomed by owner Ayumi Uehara.

We'll use this "wasanbon" today.

I heard it's only made in the Shikoku region.

Yes. This is made using Kagawa sugarcane.

What we'll do is simple.

On the "wasanbon," we'll spray some of this water.

Then we place damp sugar into wooden molds.

I've prepared several, so choose what you like.

It's a tough choice. They're all cute.

Let's see what these lovely molds can do.

Mix until it's smooth.

Press with your palm.

That's it.

Push without making it too hard.

After mixing, it's put through a strainer to make it finer.

Time for molding.

Very soft.

Straining it changes the texture.

Totally.

The rabbit mold holds about 3 grams.

This one holds about 4 grams.

Most hold around the same amount.

Tap the mold.

How cute! I did it!

Lovely job.

Rabbit, sea bream and camelia treats...

Perfect with a warm cup of matcha tea.

I'll try the rabbit.

"Oishii!"

When I had matcha in the US,
I found it bitter, and not that tasty.

But this is so good with sweets.

"Wasanbon" absorbs the matcha flavor.
Taking the sugar first makes it refreshing.

You only need a small amount.
That's the great thing about "wasanbon."

Kailene visits a workshop where the wooden molds are made.

Owner Ichihara Yoshihiro is said to be one of 10 remaining craftsmen making molds by hand.

In his showroom, you'll find all kinds, most of them made by Ichihara himself.

This is so beautiful.

Very detailed.

It's a chrysanthemum.

It's for summer Bon festivals.

What about cranes and sea breams?

For celebrations like weddings or birthdays.

Cranes and turtles symbolize longevity.

Life expectancy was shorter in the past.

People prayed for longer lives.

A proverb states, "Cranes live for 1,000 years,
and turtles live for 10,000 years."

Do you have a favorite pattern?

I guess I like flowers and fish the most.

Kailene gets a tour of the studio.

What are you working on?

Cherry blossoms.

Right. I see the petals.

Tell me about your tools.
Only the sizes are different?

I use around 50 carvers every day.
I have some 250 types in total.

Round, flat, and angled tools line the table.

Different blades are used for each part of his intricate designs.

What's more: he shapes and sharpens them himself.

The blades start out flat.

I sharpen them to whatever angle I need.

I mostly use slightly round blades.
I have a preference when it comes to angles.

Wooden molds are a key part of "wagashi."

And hand-crafted designs keep the tradition alive.

There are many varieties of sugar in the world, but coming to Tokushima and Kagawa, I was able to learn about "wasanbon," a sugar unique to the area.

Its special properties make it very suited to Japanese sweets.

Back in Tokyo, Kailene's last stop is a traditional restaurant from 1910, that serves "wasanbon" dishes.

Koyama Hirohisa celebrates the food of his home, Tokushima, and "wasanbon" is a major part of that.

He begins with a traditional simmered dish: sea bream "ara-daki."

Instead of ginger, he uses aromatic juniper berries.

And, of course, high-quality "wasanbon."

Sounds tasty!

Heat control is key when simmering fish.

I keep it boiling to eliminate the fishy smell.

I'll add "wasanbon" now.

It's not as sweet as caster sugar,
so you add twice as much.

He's making it both ways, so Kailene can compare.

Keeping it on high heat, he adds a bit of soy sauce to top it off.

Caster sugar would be for
sweeter, home-cooked meals.

I'm not simply replacing caster sugar though.
I try to highlight the characteristics of "wasanbon."

The colors are different.

"Wasanbon" creates a darker soup.

See the difference?

Looks lovely.

They shimmer differently.

Right.

Different thickness too.

Yeah.

Let's compare. Itadakimasu!

Both are tasty, with a different sweetness.

Right.

The caster sugar has punch to it.

The "wasanbon" is nice and balanced.

You can taste the ingredients more.
It's not just about sweetness.

It's well-rounded.

Exactly.

That allows you to enjoy the sea bream flavor.

Absolutely.

The meat texture is different too.

"Wasanbon" makes it soft and tender.

Your dessert.

Nice. How lovely.

What is this exactly?

On the bottom, we have bean paste made
with high-quality azuki beans and "wasanbon."

The pastry is sprinkled with "wasanbon."

Itadakimasu.

Enjoy.

Excellent.

A unique sweetness.

Definitely.

The great thing about Japanese sweets
is that they aren't too sweet.

Right.

The use of "wasanbon" provides that elegance.

Thank you.

At the end, coffee is served, with "wasanbon!"

Take some "wasanbon" first.

Once it expands, sip some coffee.

How fun!

Itadakimasu.

So good.

- Nothing like it, right?
- Yeah.

Very nice.

What's special about "wasanbon?"
What do you like about it?

When I came across it about 50 years ago,
it struck me as unique, almost quirky.

Like in a friendship, certain quirks
come with their pros and cons.

Ah, right.

It's like dealing with a hometown friend.

How nice!

Melt-in-your-mouth, mildly-sweet "wasanbon."

Its unique qualities make it a real Japanese treasure.

Different sugars are used in Japanese cuisine, but "wasanbon" is something of an unsung hero.

And the world is beginning to take notice.

For "wasanbon," the sky's the limit.

In Tokyo, every ingredient has its own story.