
Upcycling means reusing discarded or unused items to create products with higher value than the originals. Unwearable and unsellable kimono are resewn into dresses. Misshapen, substandard, Kyoto-grown vegetables, which are difficult to market, are made into paints. A Buddhist temple in danger of closure incorporated a hotel to survive. Many are turning to upcycling as they strive to solve issues plaguing Kyoto. Discover how the power of tradition is propelling upcycling in the ancient capital.
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Upcycling is reusing discarded or unwanted items in ways
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that deliver products with higher value than the originals.
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In Kyoto, upcycling efforts rooted in tradition are becoming more common.
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Uji Tea is the leading Kyoto brand of green tea.
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Leaves, that do not make the grade, can be used to produce art that pleases the eyes, and the nose.
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Some throw them away, but we give them
a second life to be enjoyed another way. -
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One Buddhist temple with a 500-year history was on the verge of closure.
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But it managed to reinvent itself in a unique way by incorporating a hotel.
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I want people to see how fusing the old
with the new can create this new style. -
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I hope the religious world in Japan
will flourish again as it did in the past. -
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Core Kyoto unravels how people reuse and upcycle food, clothing, and architecture for a sustainable society.
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Kyoto has a "kimono" culture dating back centuries.
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One woman gives old "kimono" new life as Western-style clothing.
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Kitagawa Yoshie.
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I repurposed a long-sleeved "kimono"
with a trailing hem into this dress. -
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Kitagawa's brand upcycles unwanted "kimono" into dresses to suit modern lifestyles.
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She offers customers the choice of 10 patterns,
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which bring out the best of the original "kimono"'s fabric quality, embroidery, and design.
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Kitagawa opened her business after hearing about the dire state of the "kimono" industry.
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I originally worked, helping
Kyoto craftspeople. -
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One of the artisans, a dyer, told me that "kimono"
were in decline and that they needed help. -
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She searched for ways to develop new products using "kimono" fabric and settled on dresses.
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She uses "kimono" that have fallen out of use or are most likely destined to become garbage.
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Have you got anything
that's soft in blue? -
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A formal "kimono".
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This one's pretty.
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This company deals in dead stock "kimono" and "kimono" fabric,
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and "kimono" inventory from wholesalers who have closed shop.
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Currently, many unwanted "kimono" in Japan are discarded.
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People don't wear "kimono" now, so the value
of this as "kimono" fabric has dropped. -
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These bolts will slowly deteriorate
if they go unused. -
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With the westernization of lifestyles, people have fewer opportunities to wear "kimono",
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so sales have declined.
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It simply saddens me that
Japanese culture is being abandoned. -
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I'm no different, but there are few settings
in which to wear "kimono." -
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In dresses, the situation changes and
there are more occasions to wear them. -
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"Irasshaimase."
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"Konnichi wa."
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"Arigato gozaimasu."
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On this day, a mother and daughter visit Kitagawa's shop
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to have one of their "kimono" upcycled into a dress.
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Kitagawa also offers an alteration service to individual customers
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wanting to remake their precious, unused "kimono."
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My parents made me this for
my coming-of-age ceremony. -
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I later wore it a few times at lively festivals
and my betrothal ceremony. -
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That was 33 years ago.
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Her daughter was the one who chose to remake the "kimono" into a dress.
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- You've never worn it as a "kimono?"
- That's right. -
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Mom thought I wouldn't want
to wear it when I came of age. -
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She decided herself that I'd
want to wear something prettier. -
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I never knew
that she had this. -
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She heard about Kitagawa's business and mentioned it to her mother,
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who then brought out this "kimono."
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The beautiful material was just what she wanted.
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We can use the main design and
this part for a lovely dress. -
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- Can you use the blueish part?
- Yes. -
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I'm very happy. It's just too lovely
to be shut away. -
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I'm elated that it can be reworked into
something my daughter will wear. -
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A "kimono" is made from a bolt of fabric cut into lengths,
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but not tailored into specific patterns.
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Kitagawa takes the "kimono" to a workshop that has been in the trade for more than a century.
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- A long-sleeved "kimono."
- Yes. -
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I'll take care of it.
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The workshop specializes in the traditional work of reverting "kimono" into fresh bolts of material.
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First, the "kimono" is unpicked, and the parts are sewn back together.
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Then the fabric is properly washed.
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One "kimono" is made from a bolt of fabric about 12 meters long.
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Last, the material is steamed to even out the width.
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The fabric is hard to cut if it's not
cleaned and reverted to a bolt. -
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Otherwise it'll wrinkle and
be hard to discern the pattern. -
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It's best to use all those otherwise
wasted "kimono." I'm glad they have a life. -
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The dressmaking is handled by a different workshop.
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The positioning of the main design is taken into consideration when cutting the patterns.
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And the pieces are carefully sewn together to ensure the design is aligned.
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The dress is ready for a fitting.
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The bottom front of the skirt boasts the most elegant part of the "kimono" design.
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The bodice incorporates the design that was on the back of the "kimono."
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We upcycle unwanted and unused "kimono"
into Western clothing. -
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Once the market becomes more aware
that "kimono" textiles can be used like this, -
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I think more people will want to
create their own "kimono" fabric. -
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And our upcycling commissions
will prop up the current artisans. -
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The number of traditional "machiya" townhouses that remain standing in the city is dwindling,
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and efforts are being made to conserve them.
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The "machiya" on either side of the lane were built more than 110 years ago.
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They now collectively serve as a hotel with each townhouse upcycled into a guest suite.
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We wanted to use the alleyway
and its buildings, -
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so we transformed them into a hotel complex
with an Edo-period atmosphere. -
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The 23 "machiya" along the lane were slated for demolition,
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but a developer saved them and converted the entire area into a hotel
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with the ambience of an entertainment district of around 300 years ago.
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After sundown, lanterns light the way.
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Once through the lobby, guests may feel they have been transported to another world.
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The developers preserved the original townscape as much as possible.
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The modern, Japanesque interiors incorporate the concept of nature in Kyoto.
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With the current laws, once a "machiya"
is demolished, it cannot be rebuilt. -
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Most are now replaced with
new buildings or parking lots, -
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so we aim to do our best to
preserve and conserve them. -
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Buildings are being upcycled even in the Buddhist world.
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The Shijo-Kawaramachi area is Kyoto's largest shopping and entertainment district.
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This building stands near the main intersection.
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Inside is the main prayer hall of a Buddhist temple.
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Joukyou-ji has a history stretching back centuries.
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In 2020, it merged with a hotel for a fresh start.
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We had to do it now to ensure this
570-year-old temple survives another 500 years. -
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The previous structure was close to two centuries old.
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Mitsuyama wanted to rebuild, but he hesitated to put out an appeal for donations to his parishioners.
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To take advantage of the temple's prime location,
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he came up with the idea of rebuilding as a hotel.
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I didn't modernize it out of consideration for
the parishioners who remember the old temple. -
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We used as much of the original building as
we could, such as the pillars and the transoms, -
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so everyone can fondly
remember the temple. -
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The new main hall allows everyone barrier-free access with automatic doors, and no stairs or partitions.
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Treasures were taken out of storage and put on display in the open-plan prayer hall.
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The 100 or so parishioner families were pleased.
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I was overjoyed to see the old things
alongside the new things, like this. -
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Remnants of the old temple building were also reused in the hotel.
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The artwork behind reception, titled Turtles in the Waves, was originally roof ornaments.
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The elephants at the hotel entrance were column decorations.
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Hotel guests are welcome to attend the early morning chanting of the sutras.
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The chief priest hopes this gives people unfamiliar with Buddhism a chance to explore the faith -
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this is part of the added value of upcycling.
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I wanted to show the parishioners
and other priests - -
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that this is the style which emerges
when you fuse the old with the new. -
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I hope the religious world in Japan
will flourish again as it did in the past. -
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These pop-art styled packages hold dried Kyoto heritage vegetables.
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Morishita Hiroyuki works at a company that promotes dried vegetables in new ways.
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Kamo eggplants, Shougoin daikon radishes and pot herb mustard -
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the company processes and sells about 20 Kyoto-grown vegetables.
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This range of products evolved from a desire do something with vegetables
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that would otherwise be discarded as substandard.
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It would be a huge waste to throw away
delicious produce because it is misshapen. -
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We make effective use of what would have been
discarded and increase its value many times over. -
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Each vegetable is sliced to a different thickness to suit the vegetable
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and make it enticing when dried.
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They are dried for 40 hours at a low temperature of 45ยบ Celsius to condense their "umami" savoriness.
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Dried vegetables have concentrated flavor, and consumers have found
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that when they are used in soups, the "umami" boosts the taste.
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The company decided on attractive packaging to entice people to buy dried vegetables,
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which tend to have an old-fashioned image.
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This initiative is also a win-win situation for the farmers who, in many cases,
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have no choice but to discard misshapen produce.
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We farmers get a fair price for the produce,
and it relieves us of the job of packaging. -
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They buy it as is, and this encourages us
to up production. We are grateful. -
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Another initiative, which tackles the issues of nonstandard vegetables and food loss,
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shifts the focus to color.
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Do you like painting?
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Cool. Look at those different colors.
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- Which color?
- Blue. -
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Among the supervisors is Yamauchi Ruka.
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She makes the paints from misshapen vegetables.
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She has been producing and selling the paints since 2021 when she was still a university student.
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I love playing with kids,
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so I thought it'd be fun to paint using
beautiful colors made from waste vegetables. -
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"Playing with kids," "color,"
and "paints" inspired me. -
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Yamauchi recently became aware of nonstandard vegetables when she became involved with the family farm,
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and she hit on the idea of paints.
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Most children only know the perfectly
shaped vegetables at the supermarket. -
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But I wanted to get the message across
that some of them are discarded and - -
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that unwanted vegetables can be
turned into something that shines. -
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Her initiative involves around 20 people, including university friends,
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and junior high and high school students.
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They search for suppliers and procure the vegetables, which they then freeze dry.
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These are then repeatedly ground into a fine powder.
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The powder is mixed with tree sap to produce the paints.
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One member of the group, Harada Hikaru is an artist.
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She insists on using the paints in her own artworks as a way of promoting them.
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This is how the color appears now,
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but in a year's time it will have altered,
so you can enjoy that contrast. -
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"Shitsureishimasu."
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"Konicnhi wa."
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Yamauchi is visiting a farm that grows Manganji peppers, a Kyoto heritage vegetable.
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Sekoguchi Atsushi, who heads a welfare organization, opened farms in 2019
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to offer on-the-job training for the physically and mentally disabled.
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This goes inside.
Be careful on the next one. -
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Sekoguchi began supplying Yamauchi's group with vegetables,
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because he shared her enthusiasm for spotlighting vegetables that have little chance of going to market.
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The vegetables are
transformed into colorful paints. -
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It resonated with me, because I work with
disabled people who also shine as they work. -
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Yamauchi hopes to expand the scope of nonstandard vegetables
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through promotion of the paints.
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Everyone uses the all-encompassing term
"food loss." -
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But we also want to spread the message
that being different can add color too. -
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These wooden boxes contain flower art.
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Complementing the preserved flowers is Uji tea, Kyoto's leading tea brand.
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The leaves used are sub-quality and were destined to be discarded.
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Some throw them away, but we give them
a second life to be enjoyed another way. -
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The creators of this art are based in southern Kyoto Prefecture,
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the heart of Uji tea production.
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Miyoshi Tsugumi infuses scrap tea leaves with new value.
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As does her sister, Ishikawa Ikumi.
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Miyoshi came up with the idea of using tea leaves in flower art.
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Her sister handles design.
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Their concept is "tea returns to the plant."
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The art does not just delight the eyes, but also the nose.
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The aroma especially pleases female customers,
and that makes me happy. -
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Wazuka is Kyoto Prefecture's largest Uji tea producer.
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But despite the labor spent growing the tea trees,
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some leaves are not up to par and remain unused.
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Miyoshi sources tea leaves from a farm here,
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and the farmers are optimistic about the potential of flower art.
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I'm happy that the art offers those who like tea
but don't drink it often another chance to enjoy tea. -
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Ultimately, we too hope our art
will entice people to drink tea. -
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Young people don't drink much tea
and people overseas don't know Uji tea, -
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so our art increases their awareness
and leads them to drink tea. -
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We want to do our best
to connect people and tea. -
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Kitagawa Yoshie's upcycling effects stretch beyond turning "kimono" into dresses.
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On this day, she is visiting Sennyuu-ji, the family temple of the imperial household.
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Kitagawa is involved in the temple's upcycling efforts.
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The pines here are stunning.
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After they are pruned and tidied,
the cuttings are just thrown away. -
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I take these and turn them into
incense or aromatic sprays. -
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Kitagawa has the essential oils extracted from the various tree cuttings
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for use in the relaxation products made available to temple visitors.
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When the trees that have absorbed the temple's
spiritual energy have been cut or pruned, -
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the cuttings are reused
instead of being discarded. -
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For the temple, it is a pleasure to know
people everywhere enjoy a part of us. -
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It's a new idea we would never
have come up with ourselves. -
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Kyoto residents respect the beauty and values in the traditions cultivated here over centuries,
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and are experimenting as they add new value and ideas to these traditions.
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They believe it is important to live in the present with an eye on both the past and the future
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as they strive to solve Kyoto's social issues.
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No matter the means, we should always ponder
the questions of how to enrich people's lives, -
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how to live, and whether we are
really enriching our hearts and minds. -
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And we should continue to create
as we confront the answers.