Authentic Japanese Cooking: Savory Simmered White Fish

Dining with the Chef!

Hi everyone, and welcome to Dining with the Chef.

I'm your host, Yu Hayami and here is our wonderful Chef Saito.

Hello Yu. Hello everyone.

So Chef, what are you going to teach us today?

Today, simmered "kinmedai."

Wow, "kinmedai." That's red seabream.

It's a white fish treasured in Japan for its subtle deep flavor.

Simmered "kinmedai" is made with the base of soy sauce, sake, and sugar.

Yes, it's very popular.

Right, I just remember that has a lot of difficult techniques, right?

To make it perfect.

Yeah, but not hard.

Really?

The secret is, short simmer.

- Ah.
- Don't cook too much.

Really.

And what else are we making today?

Salad with "mizuna" and "chikuwa."

"Chikuwa" is the popular Japanese food made from ground fish.

Yes. Very delicious.

Well, I can't wait.

Chef, shall we?

Yes, Okay. Let's get started.

Japan is known for its bountiful fresh and delicious ingredients.

Amazing!

Japanese cuisine, guided by traditional culture that you will be able to prepare at home.

Perfect.

Today, Simmered "kinmedai" and "chikuwa" Salad with Sesame Dressing.

Let's join Yu Hayami and become Chef Saito's chef apprentices.

Here's our Master Chef, Mr. Tatsuo Saito!

Always fun with the Chef!

Authentic Japanese cooking.

Okay, here's what's cooking today.

Using lots of fresh ginger is the key to this dish.

It adds a refreshing flavor to the sweet and savory sauce.

The "gobo," burdock root is important for simmering the "kinmedai" to perfection.

So first we are going prepare the "kinmedai."

Right.

So chef, I would really like to know how to make this dish myself.

Okay, please watch.

- Okay.
- Okay. Watch watch watch...

Don't miss it.

I won't miss it.

Today we use "kinmedai" fillet.

Yes, I love the red color of the skin. It's very festive.

Red is an auspicious color in Japan,
so it's a popular festive dish.

It's also served as a set meal
with rice and miso soup.

It's a fatty fish, perfect for simmering.

Yes.

You can also use cod, flounder,
or another white fish.

You'll be able to make
delicious simmered fish.

Let's prepare for simmered fish.

Okay.

This is very important.

- First, small cuts into the skin.
- Okay.

Make three or four diagonal incisions, about one centimeter deep.

The skin is soft and tends to shrink and tear when heated.

The incisions will prevent this from happening.

Making deep incisions will prevent
any unsightly crumbling.

It also reduces the cooking time
and allows the sauce to seep in.

- So this is a crucial step.
- Okay.

Now it's your turn, Yu.

Here we go.

Press down, and carefully
and make three or four deep slits.

Hey I can do this.

Here is our Chef's Technique!

Once you've slit the skin, clean the fish with a technique called "shimofuri" or scalding.

Boil a pot of water.

Lower the fish into the boiling water.
See how the surface turns white?

Remove immediately and
plunge into ice water.

- Oh, that's it?
- That's it.

Why is "shimofuri" so important?

This is to removes any impurities
on the surface.

Scalding the surface gets rid of any impurities and fishy smell.

If you skip this step, all the impurities
will fall into the sauce.

You want to keep it free from any
unpleasant smells and flavors.

But overcooking ruins the umami,
so shock it in ice water.

Clean the fish in ice water.

Scalding hardens the fish scales, blood, and other impurities, making them easier to remove.

This brings out the vivid red color and removes unwanted flavors, making the simmered fish, incredibly tasty.

Japanese cuisine emphasizes
color and attention to detail.

The umami lies between the skin and meat.

Remove all the impurities.

Yeah, I see that. Wow... good thing we cleaned it up.

It's not a difficult technique.
Just work carefully, step by step.

If you prep properly, the simmered fish
will be delicious.

Pat dry.

Okay. So now it's my turn.

Gently lower the "kinmedai" into boiling water.

And then, it was really just for a few seconds.

One, two, three?

Remove as soon as the surface turns white, and plunge into ice water to stop the cooking.

Then, thoroughly clean.

Wow, I'm surprised there are so many scales left.

- You don't want scales in your mouth.
- That's true. That's not present.

After cleaning, be sure to pat dry.

Now it's ready to be simmered in yummy broth.

But before that, prep the "gobo" burdock root.

It will help boost the flavor of the simmered fish.

"Gobo" is often used in Japanese cuisine.

It's a root vegetable with a distinct flavor, aroma, and crunchy texture.

Shredded and braised in soy sauce and sugar, it makes a delicious dish called "kinpiragobo."

Wash well and peel before cutting the "gobo" into lengths to fit into the pot.

Then, cut lengthwise, into four to six equal pieces.

Soak in water to prevent discoloring, then drain and pat dry.

If you don't have any "gobo," you can use Japanese leek or carrots.

Next, prep the all-important ginger.

This time we're cutting it in two different ways.

The thin slices, will be used to simmer with the fish and add a refreshing flavor to the sauce.

The finely shredded ginger will be used as both a garnish and a condiment.

It's easier to cut into shreds, if you cut along the grain.

Okay, what's next?

Let's make the simmered broth.

Add water, sake, sugar, "mirin," and soy sauce to the pot,

place over medium heat and bring to a boil.

- No "katsuobushi," no bonito.
- No "katsuobushi."

We want to simmer the fish in its
own umami, so no need for "dashi."

Do we let this boil, Chef?

Yes, boiling integrates the flavors
of the water, sake and "mirin."

- Okay, you see the boiling.
- Yes.

So add the ginger and burdock root.

Here is our Chef's Technique!

Be careful how you place the "gobo" in the pot.

Spread the "gobo" over the bottom of the pot.

The "gobo" forms a cushion between the fish
and the pot, so it won't crumble.

It falls apart, okay.

If you place the fish directly into the pot, it will move around and crumble while simmering.

The "gobo" cushions the impact and keeps the fish from falling apart.

The broth has cooled slightly, so return
to boil before adding the fish.

If you add the fish too soon, the sauce will smell fishy.

So, wait for the sauce to boil first.

If you ignore this rule,
you'll ruin the flavor.

It's come to a boil.
So add the fish, skin side up.

Place the "kinmedai," skin-side up, on top of the "gobo."

You don't need to immerse the fish in the savory broth.

Like this.

Wow, it fits perfectly.

Let it float on top. Then cover
with a sheet of parchment paper.

Ah then you add a sort of paper lid.

Cut holes in a sheet of parchment paper, and place over the fish to serve as a drop lid.

This will cause the steam from the sauce, to circulate and cook the "kinmedai,"

while allowing the sauce to seep into the "gobo."

Now it's your turn, Yu.

So, do I make it into one layer?

- Yes, like a mattress.
- Ah Okay.

Just so that there is like a layer for the fish to sleep on.

- Okay?
- Okay.

You know, I don't know why I don't make this at home.

I just remember simmered "kinmedai" to be very difficult.

But today, we haven't done anything super hard.

Very easy but we have many techniques.

I see.

So, we are going to try to fit fish in there.

Oh, like so, huh.

- It looks so good. So pretty in red.
- Yeah.

Cover with the paper drop lid and simmer over medium heat for seven to eight minutes.

Never touch!

- Never touch?
- Never touch.

Okay.

- I'm not touching the fish.
- Why you touch the fish?

- No, I'm just touching the lid.
- Why? Lid？

- No problem. Don't worry.
- Okay.

Hahahaha I'm so worried.

If you poke it, it'll fall apart.

I told you.

That's why don't touch the fish.

We're cooking the fish in the steam
from the sauce, rather than boiling it.

So, the fish is tender and moist.
The idea is to eat it with the sauce.

Okay. That makes sense.

- Okay?
- Yes.

- Okay. Let's check.
- Okay.

- Like this.
- Oh.

After about five minutes, check the pot and remove any surface residue.

Replace the drop lid and simmer for two more minutes.

After two minutes.

Okay.

- Now spoon broth on top.
- Okay.

- Tilt the pot slightly.
- Yes.

And scoop up the sauce.

Ah...

On top.

The white fish is soaking up the flavor
and color of the sauce.

It's infused with the flavor and aroma
of the sauce and "gobo" as it steams.

This is for fish.

Spooning the sauce over the fish, infuses it with the flavor and aroma of the sweetened soy sauce, "gobo," and ginger.

So why don't we turn the fish around?

No, no, no! No turn.

- It'll fall apart!
- I see.

Breaks the fish. I see.

Just drizzle with sauce.

The sauce thickens while simmering, so when you drizzle it over the fish, it makes the skin glisten.

And that makes it very nice glaze.

Glossy.

- Is it good?
- Good.

Okay chef, I'm going to check mine.

Oh, that looks good.

If you master the basic techniques,
you can make delicious Japanese food

- It's not that complicated.
- That's true.

And because we are putting the soy glaze over it, the red has gotten redder.

Very nice.

Is it Okay?

Okay.

Yes.

Arrange to serve.

Already?

Already.

- That's so fast.
- That's it. No more.

What? I thought this is taking hours.

Yeah.

Wow.

Let's take out the fish.
You can touch it now.

Uh.

Cut the "gobo."

Oh... it's soaked up all the best parts.

Yeah.

Cut the flavorful "gobo" into bite-size pieces.

Plate the "gobo" and "kinmedai."

First the fish.
Then the "gobo."

And last but not least, the sauce.

The fish is to be eaten with sauce,
so drizzle liberally.

Oh, that looks so good.

It looks nicer with plenty of sauce.

So, I will arrange to serve as well.

So, I'm going to start with the big fish.

Oh, I just hope it doesn't fall apart.

Oh.

I wish I could use all the ginger in here too.

Yeah, it's okay.

Really?

Yeah, you like it?

I think so.

- Because it's... that soaked up all the goodness too, right?
- Yeah.

I'm gonna add this.

Oh, it's good.

The ginger tastes good, too.

I think so.

No problem.

- And then I add this very end.
- No no no no not yet.

- Oh, not yet.
- The sauce.

Oh, of course.

And then we put in a lot of broth.

A lot of broth.

From the top, oh that looks so good.

Finally, garnish with shredded ginger.

And ginger topping.

Nice.

Nice accent.

Wow, that was fun, Chef Saito. I learned so much.

Chef Saito's dish is now ready to serve.

It's beautiful.

Thank you.

And finished!

Next is a "chikuwa" and "mizuna" salad with a sesame dressing.

So, for our second dish, we are making salad with "chikuwa."

"Chikuwa" is the very popular ingredient in Japan and we see in many different types of dishes.

It is.

So "chikuwa" is made by mixing ground white fish with salt.

Then spreading the paste around a rod and cooking it until the surface turns golden brown.

It's delicious as-is, and goes well
with sake and beer.

"Chikuwa" stuffed with cucumber is
a favorite pub menu item.

I love that.

And cheese.

- It's a classic appetizer.
- Yes.

I like to, you know, look for the "chikuwa" in "oden" which is nicely hot simmered broth that we eat during the wintertime.

That's very good too.

And also, "isobeage."

Yes, "isobeage" is deep fried "chikuwa" with "aonori," seaweed mixed into the butter.

It's a "bento" staple and common topping for "udon."

"Chikuwa" is very familiar part of everyday life in Japan.

Yes, now you can buy that overseas too.

Yes.

If you see it, please try it.

That's right.

Shall we start?

Yes, right. First cut the "chikuwa."

Cut the "chikuwa" into five milimeter thick slices.

Okay, then fry "chikuwa."

Brown a little for better flavor.

With butter?

Butter.

Wow, how decadent.

Heat the pan and melt the butter to sauté the "chikuwa."

"Chikuwa."

Hmm, that smells good.

- See how they're lightly browned?
- Yes.

Now add the soy sauce.

Oh...

Soy sauce and butter... good!

Oh, that's just gonna be so good.

Okay.

Once it's browned and fragrant, remove and set aside to cool.

Today, we're going to use "mizuna," a Japanese mustard green.

"Mizuna" is a Kyoto heritage vegetable.

It has a crunchy texture and a pleasantly bitter flavor.

It's a popular ingredient in both salads and "nabe" hotpots.

If you can't get hold of "mizuna," substitute any leafy green with a crunchy texture.

Cut the "mizuna" into three to four centimeter pieces.

Okay. Let's make the dressing.

Today lots of sesames!

Use a bowl to combine the sesame paste, ground sesame, sugar, rice vinegar, "usukuchi" soy sauce, and salt.

Mix together.

That looks so good.

And the sesame smell is just so inviting.

Add the cooled "chikuwa" to the sesame dressing, together with the "mizuna," and toss together.

Crisp lettuce or some other fresh green
works, too. Even cilantro.

Just toss together.

Okay. Arrange to serve.

Wow, look at that. Beautiful.

Create a balanced mound on the plate.

- Wow, look so pretty.
- Thank you.

Okay.

And it's...

Finished!

Both dishes are ready to serve.

Now, time to eat.

Chef Saito, I am so thankful that you taught me how to make this today.

I've always wanted to learn, but I thought it was much more difficult.

Yeah.

But the way it's turned out, it looks beautifully presented.

I learned so much today.

- Nothing super difficult.
- Mm-hmm.

Quite simple technique.

However, you have to take a lot of care in what you make.

Exactly.

Well, it smells delicious. May I try?

Yeah, please.

Okay.

And a little bit of, um...

- Not yet.
- No？ Okay.

First, without the ginger.

- Yes, I'm just going to try it as is.
- Just fish.

Okay.

Mm.

I love it.

It's not too sweet. Oh, it's just...

It has that sweet and savory taste, and the fish is cooked perfectly.

So perfectly.

That's amazing.

Try it as it is, then with ginger,
and then try the "gobo."

You can enjoy simmered fish
in different ways.

Now, May I add the ginger?

- Please add the ginger.
- Okay.

Mmm!

Oh, wow.

It's nice accent ginger.

It gives it a little bit of a kick because it's spicy and it complements the sauce more.

It transforms the flavor.
That's the fun of this dish.

And the complexity of the broth, it was made with very simple ingredients,

but by adding the ginger and also the burdock root, it has a very deep flavor.

Now I'm going to try it with the burdock.

- Burdock.
- Okay.

Wow.

That is so good.

The burdock has soaked up all the wonderful broth flavor.

And also, it has that hint of the broth from the fish.

So, if we can't find Burdock, you said that we can use other vegetables like carrots and...

Carrots, and also onion. Just onion, the long onion.

Sometimes potatoes... it's okay, no problem.

- Potatoes?
- Potatoes also.

Oh, that's interesting. Wow.

That would be good with potatoes.

This is really nice.

Oh, the salad.

Look how beautiful it is.

You know how the "chikuwa" is browned a little bit.

Wow.

And I love the green of the "mizuna."

Mm!

Wow, Chef. I love how it has a kick from the vinegar.

And I love the combination because this is sweet,

and of course, it's savory too but this vinaigrette actually sort of balances out the sweetness of fish.

The two contrasting flavors
work well together.

Yes, it's really nice.

It's a good pairing.

Making the most of the ingredients is
the key to cooking Japanese food.

You need to draw out the umami of each.

That sounds complicated,
but it's actually quite easy.

It was... no, I feel like I can make it tonight if I really wanted to.

Mastering the basic techniques will make
a big difference to your cooking.

Japanese food isn't that difficult,
so do try making it at home. Have fun!

Well, Chef, thank you so much for teaching us today.

Yeah. Thank you for joining me.

Yes. And, Chef, please have some too.

Okay. Thank you.

Let's review today's recipes.

First, the simmered "kinmedai."

Making diagonal slits in the skin, makes a big difference, to both the taste and appearance.

Scald in boiling water, for 3 seconds and then plunge in ice water to clean and remove any impurities.

Cut the "gobo" to fit the pot, and then cut lengthwise into 4 to 6 pieces.

Combine the seasonings in the pot and lay the gobo on the bottom.

Bring to a boil before adding the "kinmedai."

Cover with a paper, drop lid to steam.

Make sure not to touch the fish until it's done.

Plate and drizzle with the flavorful sauce to serve.

Next the "chikuwa" and "mizuna" Salad with Double Sesame Dressing.

Cut the "chikuwa" into five millimeter thick slices and sauté in butter and soy sauce.

Combine the sesame paste, ground sesame, sugar, and rice vinegar, toss the "chikuwa" and "mizuna" and it's done.

Become a Master of Japanese cuisine at your house!