Peak Pleasure in The Northern Alps

"Journeys in Japan"

One of the attractions of hiking in the mountains of Japan

is the chance to experience the thrill of traversing.

- There they are!
- So beautiful. Amazing!

Japan is one of the few places in the world

where hikers have the opportunity to walk along ridge lines

connecting mountain peaks at high altitude.

Hayashi Emiri is a mountain-lover with roots in both Jamaica and Japan.

One major factor that has boosted the popularity of hiking in Japan

is the presence of mountain huts along popular trails.

Have a good night, everyone!

Panoramic vistas greet hikers as they start their day high in the mountains.

On this edition of "Journeys in Japan,"

the pleasures and thrills of hiking one of the best trails in the country.

Peak pleasure in the Northern Alps

Some 200 kilometers northwest of Tokyo, in Nagano Prefecture,

lies the Jonen Mountain range, part of Japan's Northern Alps.

(Kamikochi Bus Terminal)

Hirakawa Yoichiro is an experienced mountaineer

who has climbed many peaks in the Himalayas.

It's important to post our trekking itinerary.

Before setting off, it is mandatory to submit your trekking itinerary,

either on paper or online.

Hirakawa will be guiding Emiri on a 30-kilometer traverse,

passing Tokugo Pass, Mt. Chogatake,

and finally to Mt. Jonendake.

Despite the cloud, we've got a good view today. Isn't it great!

Kamikochi is the most popular site in all of the Northern Alps range.

Before, 1.2 million people used to visit each year,

but during the pandemic years of 2020 and 2021,

that figure dropped by two-thirds.

People are starting to come back here.

Last year when I was here, there were very few people.

There was hardly anyone. Those benches were empty.

It's much livelier again now.

There's a cool breeze here.

It was hot down there.

Kamikochi is about 1,500 meters above sea level.

Even in midsummer,

the temperature rarely rises above 25 degrees Celsius.

The view opens up here.

There's Mt. Myojindake.

(Mt. Myojindake)

These things floating in the air are seeds of the "chosenia arbutifolia" tree.

It's like it's snowing in summer.

Chosenia arbutifolia is rarely seen in Japan

outside of a few locations,

such as Kamikochi and areas of Hokkaido.

We've reached Kamonjigoya.

I always come to Kamikochi but,

it's my first time finding this building.

It's really historical.

How has it been in Kamikochi during the pandemic?

In 2020, we didn't start operating until April 20.

At that point, we thought it was over. We never thought it would continue for another year.

Not only did we have fewer customers,

there was nobody here to work for us.

This mountain hut has stood in this place for 142 years.

It was first set up in 1880 by a local hunter, Kamijo Kamonji,

and last year Kamijo Mizuho took over

as the fifth generation of her family to run it.

We haven't thought it through yet,

but we want to bring our lodge more up to date.

Our family has lived in the mountains ever since this place was first built,

so we want to keep it going.

For example, the taste of our grilled char fish is

something you can only experience here.

The specialty here is salted char fish

slowly grilled around the open fire,

just the same way that Kamonji did it in the 19th century.

It takes almost an hour for them to cook.

You can eat the entire fish. Start from the head.

A favorite drink here is sake that is poured over a char fish

that's been smoked over the hearth for several days.

The concentrated flavor makes it really delicious.

It's so mild.

It's my first time drinking this fish sake.

The aroma is great, and so is the taste.

It smells so good.

So satisfying.

Today, Hirakawa and Emiri will trek up to Otakisanso Lodge.

The 13-kilometer route includes many ups and downs.

Let's go!

Until a road for cars was opened,

this was the main route for reaching Kamikochi.

It still remains a strong, well-traveled trail.

After about three hours, they reach Tokugo Pass.

That's the old route. It's closed off now. I first walked it 46 years ago.

The route leading down to the foot of the mountain was cut off by a landslide in 2020

and still has not been repaired.

This cabin, which opened close to the pass in 1923,

can only accommodate ten people.

But it remains open to this day.

These trees are Veitch's silver firs. They're indigenous to the mountains of Japan.

It's so beautiful.

All right, let's go.

Veitch's silver firs are a species of evergreen

that can be found growing on high mountains.

Glades like this are a unique aspect of hiking in Japan.

Careful where you step here.

Bamboo grass grows fast, and its leaves can quickly obscure the trail.

Normally this would have been cleared,

but they have been neglected during the pandemic.

After four hours, they reach their next stopping point.

This is the Otakiyarimidai watchtower.

From the top, it's possible to glimpse Mt. Yarigatake,

which is nicknamed the Matterhorn of Japan.

On fine days, it's visible over there. But some days it's too cloudy.

I cannot see Yarigatake today but,

I can see the blue sky and the white clouds and the green forest.

They are contrasting. It's so beautiful.

It feels so good here.

From around 2,400 meters, there is little bamboo grass,

and it becomes much easier to walk.

This is an unusual sight. These flowers are "monotropastrum humile."

- They look mysterious.
- I've never seen so many together like this.

Monotropastrum humile is a species of plant that lacks chlorophyll.

Instead of photosynthesis,

it draws its nutrition from fungi around the tree roots.

After ten hours, they reach their lodge for the night.

We've reached Otakisanso Hut.

We've made it!

The manager of this lodge is a mountain rescue expert.

Do the people who run mountain huts also help to rescue people?

Last year, from the spring holidays on,

we had to go out every week.

Most people probably think mountain rescue work is done by the police.

But mountain huts are actually closer to the scene.

When the police aren't able to get there fast,

we have to rush out to the rescue.

Thank you very much.

I'd have liked to talk some more. But let's do that next time.

I'll be back here again.

Take good care.

Let's go!

- The sun is bright today.
- It's great weather.

I think we'll get a good view today.

- There they are.
- Fantastic!

In the early-morning light, the 3,000-meter-plus peaks of the Northern Alps

make an impressive sight.

Right below the far-off summit is their destination for the day,

Chogatake hut.

We've reached an alpine meadow.

Heading towards Chogatake, they pass small ponds along the ridge.

This is the habitat for many alpine plants.

You go ahead.

Take care.

They reach the peak of Chogatake in two hours.

- We've reached the top of Mt. Chogatake.
- Yeah! Wow.

However, clouds are already beginning to move in

and soon the mountain is shrouded in fog.

This is the Chogatake Hut.

We need to put on masks here.

The owner of this hut, Nakamura Kozue, is still in her twenties.

She took over after her mother died suddenly three years ago.

Soon after that, the pandemic started, but she's reopened now,

making sure measures are in place to prevent infections.

Has it been hard for you in the pandemic?

Our income plummeted.

It's been really hard to cover all our costs,

for staff wages and maintaining the trail.

One of the important responsibilities of each mountain hut

is to maintain the trail.

Keeping the trail in good shape is essential for keeping the climbers safe.

But are there any other reasons for doing that?

Basically, we rely on helicopters to bring in goods

or to pick up people who have had accidents.

But in poor weather,

we have to carry the victims down on our backs to the foot of the mountain.

That's another reason why the trail has to be kept in good shape.

Mountain huts are there to protect the lives of people trekking the trails.

Nakamura says the pandemic has inspired her in new ways.

We changed our system due to the pandemic.

Apart from people who are being evacuated, all guests now have to reserve ahead of time.

If this spreads to other huts,

it should encourage more people to think out their climbing plans better.

And that may lead to fewer accidents resulting from people overstretching themselves.

I'll make a decision after seeing how hikers react.

Today is the final day of their hike.

They wake to find the skies have cleared.

The sky has cleared. We might be able to see some distant peaks.

Mt. Jonendake is in sight now.

It's a massive mountain.

The ridge line from Chogatake to Jonendake

is one of the most popular traverses in all of Japan.

There is nowhere else that offers magnificent views like this while you're hiking.

To the west lies the Yari-Hotaka range,

with eight peaks rising to over 3,000 meters.

This area of the Northern Alps offers some of the best mountaineering in all Japan.

It's also renowned as a premier site for rock climbing.

These shrubs are Japanese stone pines,

a species that was brought to Japan during the last ice age,

and still survive on the highest mountains.

That's a spotted nutcracker.

The seeds from the stone pines are a principal food for spotted nutcrackers,

one of the most visible birds in the mountainous regions of Japan.

Can you see, over there? Rock ptarmigans.

I didn't know you could see them up here.

Japanese ptarmigan over there.

They're not scared of us.

I guess they have their babies. So cute.

Rock ptarmigans are another species that have been in Japan since the last ice age.

With a total population of only around 2,000 birds,

they're protected as a special natural monument.

On the left is the Yari-Hotaka range,

and on the right, we can see some of Japan's best-known mountains.

It's such an amazing panorama.

Mt. Fuji is clearly visible.

It's amazing we can see it from here.

This route offers spectacular views not just toward the Northern Alps

but also to the east, where many of Japan's 100 most famous peaks are visible.

They've been walking for an hour and a half.

The gentle ridge line from Chogatake ends here,

and now they must begin the climb to Choyari.

Over there is our final destination, Mt. Jonendake. It's a splendid peak.

After a steep descent, we climb a lower peak,

and then we start our final ascent.

It's so long.

Take care as you descend.

There are some lovely flowers here.

By soon after 9 AM,

the sea of clouds begins to seep across the ridge.

They reach their last climb.

The trail here is quite different from where they were hiking earlier.

Now we're starting our final steep climb.

They've been hiking for five hours already.

The peak of Mt. Jonendake! Congratulations! Great work!

Finally, we got to the top of the Jonen.

It takes a long time to come here.

I'm so happy. Thank you.

They reached the summit of Jonendake at 11 AM,

and it was only just in time.

Thunderstorms are forecast for the afternoon.

I'm so satisfied with watching this beautiful, awesome view,

and the wonderful colorful flowers.

The most impressive thing is the work of the mountain lodges.

I've stayed a few times at mountain lodges

but I didn't know that they are assuming the important role of

maintaining the trails and are involved in rescue efforts.

I want them to keep up their work from now on.

Thank you so much.

Kamikochi can be reached by taxi or bus

from Matsumoto Station or Shin-shimashima Station.

There are also direct buses from Tokyo and other major cities.