MAPPING KYOTO STREETS / Archives

Oct. 27, Sat.

Rakuto & Rakuchu

Kyoto consists of five distinct areas. In this special edition, we focus on two - Rakuto and Rakuchu - and introduce the sights to see.

Rakuto is located in the central east of Kyoto. World Heritage Site, Kiyomizu-dera, and other famous temples dot the skirts of the mountains. The local entertainment area is lined with tea houses. We map this lively, major tourist area of Kyoto.

Rakuchu in the heart of Kyoto is an area where we can feel what life in the city was once like. It has established businesses dealing in Kyoto specialties and artisans demonstrating their skill.

We explore these two areas that are alive with the spirit of Kyoto and its people.

Presenter
Randall V. Channell (Soei)
Master of Tea

Channell arrived in Japan from Canada in 1984 to study Japanese martial arts and has lived in Kyoto for about 20 years. He began studying the Urasenke way of tea to learn the spirit of both the literary and martial arts. Channell was bestowed the tea name, Soei. His busy schedule includes teaching tea and owning a café on Sanjo-dori.

Presenter
Hiroki Sato
DJ

Born in Hokkaido, Sato has lived in Kyoto for 37 years. While enrolled in the Department of British and American Studies at Kyoto University of Foreign Studies, he took leave to work at the Japanese Embassy in Kenya. On graduating, Sato taught English before becoming a radio personality for the Alpha Morning Kyoto show at FM Kyoto (Alfa Station).

Presenter
Sachiko Hattori
Cross-cultural Communications Consultant

Hattori was actually born and raised along Marutamachi-dori. After graduating from Doshisha University in Kyoto, she worked as an in-flight attendant for Japanese, Swiss and Dutch airlines. But she wanted to put her experience in customer service to good use, so she established her own company in cross-cultural communications. Raised on Kyoto hospitality, Hattori assists and promotes Japan to visiting dignitaries, and instructs businessmen on Japanese culture and manners to help them avoid any potential work conflicts due to misunderstandings.

Rakuto

Rakuchu

Miyagawacho

Miyagawacho is one of five entertainment districts in Kyoto. Playhouses opened here around 400 years ago, after Kabuki performances became popular along the Kamo River, and the area became a bustling entertainment district with many inns. Since actors were always coming and going, Miyagawacho developed a deep, historical connection with the arts. Today, this street is lined with more than 40 tea houses. Within the orderliness, Miyagawa-chou radiates the refinement of an entertainment district. We follow Fukunae, a maiko from the Shigemori Okiya, into the world of the maiko; rehearsing, preparing, and entertaining.

http://ochaya.kyo2.jp/

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Kiyomizu-dera

In 778, Enchin-shonin had a revelation in a dream to build on this location a thatched hut, which became Kiyomizu-dera. Throughout time, all travelers to Kyoto have, without fail, visited this World Heritage temple. It is most famous for its "stage of Kiyomizu" and the Otowa-no-taki waterfall.

http://www.kiyomizudera.or.jp/

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Jishu Jinja

Jishu Jinja is north of Kiyomizu-dera, at the top of the stone stairs. Two special stones stand at this shrine. If you walk from one to the other with your eyes closed, you will find love. Jishu Jinja's god of love is well known, so a constant stream of young females visit here. Despite its 1,200-years history as protector of Kiyomizu-dera, this shrine is unpretentious.

http://www.jishujinja.or.jp/

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Chion-in

The impressive, majestic Sanmon was built in 1619. This gate to Chion-in is Japan's largest wooden building in structure and scale. The interior is a Buddhist temple that emanates a solemn mood. At its center sits the crowned Shakyamuni Buddha surrounded by statues of 16 disciples. A powerful, flying dragon stares at you from the ceiling. Sanmon's interior is only open to the public in the spring and fall, so be sure to visit.

http://www.chion-in.or.jp/

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Yamanaka Aburaten

Since its establishment 200 years ago - at the end of the Edo Period - this merchant family has bought oil from the country and sold it, locally. The wide shop front is a strong reminder of years gone by. Perilla oil is used to coat the latticework on Kyoto's machiya-style townhouses and Japanese umbrellas made of washi paper. Still considered a luxury item, today, camellia oil is used by Japanese women for delicate hair and skin care. Olive oil is used in Italian and other Mediterranean dishes, but more recently it is being used in Japanese food. Oil has always played a major role in the lives of Kyotoites.

http://yoil.co.jp/

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Fuka

Fuka was established about two and a half centuries ago and was a purveyor of namafu to the imperial household. Fu, or wheat gluten, came to Japan from China as an ingredient in Buddhist cooking and has become an essential ingredient in Kyoto cuisine and Buddhist shoujin-ryori cuisine. Fu is mainly used in cooking, but Fuka concocted a Kyoto sweet called fu-manju. Chopped seaweed is kneaded into the namafu then wrapped around red-bean paste. The light namafu compliments the refined, sweet been paste in this Kyoto delicacy.

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Banba Senkogyo

One traditional industry that relies on water is kurozome, a fabric blackening method. Banba Sen'kougyou is one of few businesses that still specializes in kurozome. The late 16th-century tea master, Sen-no-rikyu is said to have used water from their well, Yanagi-no-i, for tea ceremonies. This water is used to blacken not only kimono but also dresses, jackets and other western clothes.

http://www.black-silk.com/

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Ishibe-koji

A small lantern hangs along Shimogawara-dori. The wondrous atmosphere of the alley running off to the right entices you into a different world. This alley is Ishibei-koji. The flagstones were originally used in the streetcar tracks that once stretched through the city. The alley is lined with restaurants and inns, and is known as the back parlor of the Miyagawacho entertainment district.

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Entoku-in

Nene - the wife of Toyotomi Hideyoshi, the general who unified Japan - lived out her final years at Entoku-in, a sub-temple of Kodai-ji. The main buildings and the north garden were relocated from Fushimi Castle, where Hideyoshi and Nene lived. When she moved to the temple, Nene brought with her the entire Kesho Palace and the front garden. The 16th century artist, Hasegawa Touhaku, created a Chinese-style landscape painting on the sliding doors. Entoku-in also has works by modern Japanese painters for you to enjoy.

http://www.kodaiji.com/entoku-in/

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Ikawa Tategu-doguten

Tategu refers to the wooden, sliding, and paper doors; and other partitions in a house. Ikawa Tategu-doguten receives tategu in good condition from demolished old houses and cleans them up for sale. As machiyas gain more international recognition, more people from around the world want to buy these fittings.

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Finger Marks

Finger Marks refresh old furnishings used in machiyas. The concept behind this store is giving old furniture, which was well loved by its owners and covered in fingerprints, new life so it can be reused. They also stock original furniture.

http://www.fingermarks.net/

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Nishikiyu

Behind the three-story, wooden façade is the communal bath house, Nishikiyu, which opened in 1927. In recent years, the number of bath houses has dropped, but Nishikiyu has a novelty that draws tourists and young people, alike. Walk through the noren curtain and you find yourself in the changing area, which is lined with wicker baskets made from willow branches - a rare sight, today. They have been repeatedly repaired over the years, but there are no wicker craftsmen alive. About once a month, the changing area is the venue for jazz concerts, comedy shows, popular plays, and other events.

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Okutan Kiyomizu

Established in 1635, Okutan Kiyomizu is Japan's oldest yudofu restaurant, and to this day it remains popular with regulars and tourists. Its delicacy is the old-fashioned Mukashi-dofu that is handmade on the premises using traditional methods. The sight of the white tofu simmering, quivering in the earthenware pot, and the konbu kelp stock permeates the tofu, giving it a gentle flavor and aroma.

http://www.tofuokutan.info/

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Toriyasa Azami

Toriyasa Azami is located on the first floor of the Museum of Kyoto on Sanjo-dori. Azami, a well-established restaurant, opened this branch for people to enjoy delicious chicken dishes in a relaxed atmosphere. It is famous for its oyako-don, a superb combination of juicy, seared chicken and egg over a bowl of rice.

http://www.bunpaku.or.jp/info_azumi.html

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Asahido

The representative, traditional Kyoto craft, Kiyomizu-yaki pottery, derives its name from the fact that it was fired near Kiyomizu-dera. Around 140 years have passed since the Asahido ceramics shop first raised its sign in front of Kiyomizu-dera's gate. Asahido, which is considered the best Kiyomizu-yaki shop in Japan, stocks all kinds of pottery - from everyday tableware to pieces by famous potters. It also has a workshop, gallery, and café.

http://www.asahido.co.jp/

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Kyoto Ii Museum

The descendent of Ii Naomasa - a 16th-century general - curates this art museum, which displays armor, helmets, swords, and other battle gear. Kyoto Ii Museum offers you the chance to don a suit of armor - the shin guards, breastplate, and helmet.

http://www.ii-museum.jp/

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Suzuki Shofudo

Established in 1893, Suzuki Shofudo originally specialized in producing the paper tubes used to roll kimono fabric. The array of colors along the shop wall is made up of more than 80 varieties of katazomeshi – washi paper colorfully dyed, layer by layer, using kimono pattern templates. These reproduced designs of old have been handed down for posterity and are given new life for modern eyes. The various goods displayed around the shop are all made with katazomeshi. Suzuki Shofudo also have a workshop for you to make your own canisters.

http://www.shofudo.co.jp/

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Bunnosuke-jaya

Rakugo comedian, Katsura Bunnosuke II, established Bunnosuke-jaya in 1910 after he retired. This shop remains little changed since those times and is nostalgic for many Japanese. Both its specialties – the non-alcoholic amazake drink and the warabimochi confection – have delicate flavors.

http://www.bunnosuke.jp/

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